Aadrita Chatterji

“I look ugly as heck. How does everyone else glow like that?”

The writer finds herself saying this at least a few times a week, especially as she has an acne flare-up. She has combination acne-prone skin in summer, and dry acne-prone skin in winter – which is an interesting but weird combination. We will find her with her face close to the mirror under the lighting, trying to dissect each blemish. She searches for products to clear her mild acne: cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser and sunscreen. Thankfully, she doesn’t own a magnifying mirror yet to examine her pores. Oh wait. Let us not give her ideas.

The Global Appreciation For Multi-step Beauty Routines

People with problematic skin tend to be more hypervigilant about micro-inspecting their skin for hormonal bumps, acne marks and closed comedones. Each time they feel a blemish approaching, they feel as if the entire world is entirely focused on that one spot. They want to treat their skin imperfections with everything: home remedies with neem and sandalwood, and chemical solutions such as salicylic acid, niacinamide, mandelic acid and peptides. Their bathroom shelves are now filled with bottles, jars and tubes of all shapes, sizes and colours.

Imported skincare is popular in India, where fair skin remains a beauty standard. Marketing experts call this phenomenon ‘soft power’, which works through persuasion over military force. Our grandmothers’ recipes of besan and yoghurt are replaced with what’s new, attracting customers with product design, branding, colouring and fragrance. The problem remains fighting the misconception that applying multiple serums, creams and powders promises self-care. Most of the time, it tells us that our skin is not good enough.

Hyper-consumption To Sell Us The Idea Of A Good Life

As most dermatologists would agree, less is more in skincare. All we essentially need is a gentle face cleanser, a lightweight moisturiser and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 50+. The internet tells us to use a toner, an exfoliator, a serum, an essence, an ampoule, an eye cream and a lip mask before we sleep. All of these products cost money, and multiple ingredients can wreck our skin barrier. Even with natural ingredients such as Multani mitti, turmeric, tomato and raw milk, one must exercise caution to avoid serious skin reactions.

Coming back to the promise, most of us, especially women, are tired out. We juggle homes, careers and ourselves. Sometimes, we want to relax. Our skincare routines become that chunk of undivided time to take care of ourselves before we move on to the next thing. Social media tells us: wake up to New York, have a matcha latte, do twelve-step regimes with three active ingredients and stare at the skyline till evening. Rinse, repeat and end the night by watching a movie. That is the way to achieve ‘airbrushed glass skin’ bypassing genetics, climate, humidity and air-water quality.

Is Our Natural Skin A Flaw? NO. Yet, The Reality Stings.

As someone with acne-prone skin, the writer knows the constant terror of developing a new pimple. We constantly see ourselves in the mirror and front cameras, and we see people online with makeup, lighting and heavy filters. As a result, we compare our reality to their perfection. Human skin is a living, breathing organ. Real skin is naturally imperfect: acne, pores, fine lines, peach fuzz, asymmetrical face shapes and eyebrows. Somehow, modern cosmetic marketing has made human characteristics a flaw, something that even the writer suffers from.

Though it is hard, she tries to accept her acne and post-inflammatory erythema. She recommends pharmacy brands – colour-free and fragrance-free. For moderate to severe skin problems, one must consult a qualified dermatologist. We don’t need chemical peels, bleaching, pore strips, or masks. Quality skincare products are expensive and risky to experiment with, and we don’t need more half-full bottles on the bathroom shelf. A minimalist skincare routine doesn’t mean a lack of hygiene and personal grooming; rather, it reiterates self-awareness.

Of course, skincare is extremely personal business. For some of us, luxury skincare is something that we have earned. Affordable skincare is available to the rest of us, and there is no guilt in choosing what suits our skin. However, we’ll find true self-love and self-care beyond a skincare routine by choosing a balanced diet, water and healthy-minded people. Instead of mixing prescription-strength retinoids with high-dose glycolic acid, let us protect our sensitive skin barrier using fewer products and simpler ingredients. We need to avoid this capitalist crap and go back to the basics for healthy skin.

From tomorrow, no micromanaging our skincare regimes. Also, always do a patch test.